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Read about common and not so common problems found with car alarms, remote starters and keyless entry systems.
Having a problem with a remote starter installation? Purchased a vehicle with an existing system and having some problems with it? Need a little direction or advice? Report your situation to us and we will be happy to try to help! With over 25 years of installing car alarms and remote starter systems there's a good chance we have seen the same problem and can provide some recommendations and/or the fix your looking for.
In any situation where the Flashlogic module does not program properly due to a mistake made during the programming procedure or from a faulty or wrong connection or servicing of the vehicle, it is required to reset and reprogram the Flashlogic module to the vehicle using the procedure below:
Step 1: Unplug all harnesses away from the Flashlogic module making sure you unplug the black 4-pin plug last:
Step 2: First, Press & hold in the small black push button on the Flashlogic module, while still holding in the button, plug in just the black 4-pin plug: Response: The LED on the Flashlogic module will begin flashing RED, when this is seen release the button: Response: The LED will turn ON Solid RED for a few seconds then turn OFF, after this is seen, plug in the remaining harnesses to the Flashlogic module:
Step 3: The LED on the Flashlogic module will be steadily flashing GREEN. While the LED is steadily Flashing GREEN, press & hold in the small black push button on the Flashlogic module until the LED lights up Solid GREEN for 1 second and turns OFF, then release the button. The module is now reset and ready for vehicle specific programming to the vehicle: Repeat vehicle specific FLASHLOGIC PROGRAMMING to the vehicle step in your manual.
Yes, but to insure safe remote starting of a vehicle with a manual transmission it requires a remote starter system specifically designed to be installed into vehicle's with a manual transmission. These systems install identically to a system for automatic transmissions with the addition of a couple extra outputs & connections (1 connection to the vehicle's parking brake and 1 connection to the vehicle's clutch activation wire) with a manual transmission compatibility setting. Known as a "Remote Start Ready Mode", this feature requires the driver to enable the vehicle to be remote started after the vehicle is parked; you can't just randomly remote start the vehicle anytime you want like you can with a remote starter on a automatic trans vehicle, you have to prepare the vehicle to be remote started...
While the vehicle is still running with the keys, the driver places the vehicle in neutral, set's the parking brake and then press and holds in the button on the remote until the dash lights flash (activation procedures will vary). Then the driver turns off the ignition, removes the keys, and exits the vehicle. When the remote start ready mode is set correctly, the vehicle will remain running while exiting the vehicle. Once the driver's door is closed the driver presses the button on the remote 1X which will lock the vehicle's doors (if equipped with factory power door locks, otherwise it will just shut down the vehicle) and it will automatically shut down the engine. The vehicle is now ready to be safely remote started.
In the event that the driver re-enters the vehicle without activating the remote starter, opening the driver's door will cancel out the remote start ready mode and the driver would have to perform the remote start ready mode procedure again.
You may not see the need to go beyond your garage or driveway to remote start your car, but increased range with 2-way confirmation is definitely an advantage when your parked at work, out shopping or in a restaurant, especially when the weather is bad.
With standard remotes, you're looking out the window to see if your parking lights are on (or you can see the exhaust when it's cold) or the horn to beep to confirm that you successfully activated the remote starter. With a 2-way remote, the advantage is when your vehicle is out of sight you can be sitting at your table in a restaurant or in the checkout line at the grocery store and have visual LCD screen or LED's and sound confirmation right on your remote that your vehicle has remote started, or not! Even double check that you locked the vehicle's doors and more!
Reported Problem: New Prestige Z Series Install. Negative parking brake input connection good. Turbo-timer turned ON and set for 3 minutes in programming but the turbo cool-down mode will not activate.
Possible Fix: This feature must be activated after installation is completed. This is only required the first time the turbo timer is needed. After activation the system will always automatically enter turbo timer mode when the parking brake is activated: With the vehicles engine running for more than 15 seconds: Activate Parking Brake: Press the programming button on the antenna 2X: The parking lights will flash 2X to indicate turbo timer mode has been activated.
#1 Most Common Remote Starter Installation Problem
After 30 years of being under a dash installing everything from old-school kill-switches, anti-theft coded key-pads, auto alarms and later remote starter systems, there's not many problems that I haven't seen, heard of, read about in manufacturer's technical bulletins or actually caused myself, that installers I've provided tech support to over the last 17 years that have reported a new installation problem to me;
So, that being said, in my experience, I have to say that the #1 problem that I have found to be the cause of a "oddly-working", "barely working" or "blame it on the system, not the installer" problem is due to a faulty or bad chassis ground to the system...
It's not as easy to find and confirm a good negative -12V chassis ground source in a vehicle as it is to locate a positive +12V source. Simply put, most ground sources in a vehicle fluctuate (and I'm confident that most professional automotive audio installers can testify to this statement). This is why you can't tap into any existing factory ground wires in the vehicle, dash support brackets or most steering column supports either.
Without indepth explanation (I've learned it's not so much what's causing the problem, it's "how to fix it"!) alway's use a self-tapping screw through any metal that is painted the same color as the exterior of the vehicle. Example places I personally place my grounds; behind the left kick-panel or on the firewall. And don't over tighten and strip the self-tapping screw!
Reported Issue: New install. Ignition turns ON, no crank at all then the ignition turns off and the system automatically tries 3 more times but still no crank.
#1: One of the systems constant input power wires (which is the feed output for the system's crank/start output wire) is not receiving constant power.
#2: Wrong or bad connection from the system to vehicle's starter wire (this would be the wire in the vehicle's ignition harness that only shows +12 Volts only when the vehicle is being cranked/started with the key).
#3: Vehicle's bypass interface kit needed or not properly programmed.
1. Turn the vehicle’s ignition to the full ON position (the last position the ignition can be in before actually starting the vehicle. Do not start the vehicle) within 10 seconds:
2. Press and hold in the system’s programming button that’s built into the system’s antenna (commonly mounted on the inside top center of windshield) until the system sounds 3X then release the button, on remote starter only systems, just the dash lights will flash 3X, then within 10 seconds:
3. Press and hold the LOCK button on the transmitter (or CIRCLE ARROW button on 1 button remotes): the system will sound 1X (or dash lights will flash 1X on remote starter only systems) within 3 seconds indicating the transmitter has been programmed:
4. Repeat just step 3 on any additional transmitters at this time, up to a total of 4 transmitters can be programmed at a time. Turn the ignition off, remove keys and test remote.
Do not allow more than 10 seconds to lapse between steps or the program mode will automatically turn off and you will have to start over.
Reported Issue: Remote Starter tries to Start 3 times then Stops (Ignition turns ON, no crank)
Application:During new install testing or existing system that worked fine prior to current problem
Possible Cause(s): Several situations can cause this problem: #1: May need additional bypass kit to complete installation or bypass kit not programmed properly (new install) or system lost bypass kit programming (pre-working system). #2: Using tachless-mode and the tachless mode is not picking up enough voltage level (new install). #3: Wrong or bad connection to vehicles' starter wire or one of the two constant power wires to the remote starter system that relays' momentary power to the starters crank output wire is not getting constant power (bad or wrong connection).
Step 1: Turn Ignition ON (DO NOT start the vehicle): Press & release the button on the system's antenna 3X (system antenna is commonly found mounted on the inside top center on the windshield behind the rearview mirror or in the upper left corner of windshield): Dash lights and horn will beep 1X in response (if system has horn output feature):
Step 2: Press & release the LOCK button on the remote (or the 1 button on 1 button remotes) 1X: the dash lights and horn will beep 1X in response indicating that the remote has been programmed to the system:
Step 3: Press & release the LOCK button on any additional remote(s) (or the 1 button on 1 button remotes) 1X: the dash lights and horn will beep 1X in response indicating that this remote has also been programmed to the system:
Step 4: After all remotes have been programmed to the system, turn the ignition OFF, wait, the system will sound within 5 secs. Done. Test remote(s).
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